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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest place achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.